Doubles

Doubles

Easily the most recognizable and beloved dish from Trinidad and Tobago, doubles are an expression of migration and fortitude. Badru Deen is the son of Emamool and Raheman Rasulan Deen, who conceived of the dish in 1936 in Princes Town as a way to support their large family, bridging Indian flavors with the ingredients of their Caribbean home. Doubles are addictive: The turmeric-and-cumin-laced bara (fried bread) are crisp but soft, cradling spiced chickpeas that are punctuated with sour, spicy, sweet and crunchy condiments. As with all deep-frying, have a splatter guard handy, and open a window. Traditionally, doubles are served with mango chutney and pepper sauce, chadon beni or culantro chutneys, but, inspired by the cross-island connections found in “Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking” by Von Diaz (Chronicle Books, 2024), these can be topped with mint-cilantro chutney from Mauritius and tamarind sauce. Sauces are optional, but strongly encouraged. Doubles are messy by design, and turmeric will stain your clothes.
  • Preparation:
  • Cooking:
  • Total:
  • Serves: 4 persons

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. Step 1

    Prepare the bara: Combine the flour, baking powder, sugar, yeast, turmeric, cumin and salt in a large bowl and mix with a fork until fully incorporated. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, then slowly pour in ¾ cup lukewarm water, mixing with a fork until the dough starts to get shaggy. Knead the dough with your hands just until it’s soft and pliable. (Dough will be a little sticky.) Let rest, uncovered for at least 30 minutes.
  2. Step 2

    Prepare the channa: If using dried chickpeas, drain the soaked chickpeas, then transfer to a deep saucepan and cover with 6 cups water. Increase heat to medium-high and boil for 45 minutes to 1 ½ hours until chickpeas are tender and easily crushed between two fingers, skimming any foam off the surface of the water. (The cook time can vary quite a bit depending on the size and age of the chickpeas, so test them along the way.) Drain chickpeas, reserving 2 cups of the chickpea broth.
  3. Step 3

    Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large, deep skillet over medium. Add onion and scallions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 7 minutes, until just golden.
  4. Step 4

    Stir in the garlic, then add the curry powder, cumin, coriander, turmeric and amchar masala and fry until fragrant. Add the thyme sprigs, Scotch bonnet and chadon beni, then pour in the cooked chickpeas and 1 cup reserved chickpea broth (if cooking with dried chickpeas) or water (if using canned chickpeas). Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes until flavors meld.
  5. Step 5

    Discard the thyme sprigs and Scotch bonnet, then separate about ¼ of the chickpeas and purée them until smooth, returning to the skillet to thicken the sauce. If you want brothier channa, add more chickpea broth or water. Season to taste with salt. Cover and set aside while you prepare the bara.
  6. Step 6

    With oiled fingers, divide the dough into 12 equal balls and transfer to a lightly oiled working surface. Form each ball between two hands, then set it on your work surface and press it out with your fingers, gently spreading from the middle to the edges, as if smoothing a sheet, until it forms a superthin, 5-inch round. (Holes are OK.)
  7. Step 7

    Line a large baking sheet with paper towels, then heat 2 cups of vegetable oil in a large frying pan over medium to high heat until it reaches 375 degrees. Working with one round of dough at a time, gently place the uncooked bara on the surface of the oil. It’ll puff up and rise to the surface. Flip after a few seconds, when the bara starts to turn golden in spots, then fry for a few seconds more, until golden and starting to show some stiffness when lifted out of the oil. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet.
  8. Step 8

    To serve, overlap two bara on a plate and top with a generous spoonful of channa. Drizzle with an array of sauces of your choice: mint-cilantro chutney, tamarind sauce and pepper or hot sauce. Serve fresh and piping hot.